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On a historical research trip in the heart of Belgium, my husband and I stood on the edge of the Gaasbeek castle terrace. As we looked out over a placid countryside of gently rolling hills, robed in a hundred shades of green, everything we saw whispered of peace.  Then a placard caught our attention:  "This is Bruegel country, where the master painted his unforgettable peasant scenes."  The name of Bruegel intensified my image of peace and shattered it in the same moment. . . .   More later